Saltpetre is us

Saltpetre is used in commercial charcuterie and meat curing but it's difficult to get hold of in small quantities. Try the Natural Casing Company in Farnham, Surrey (01252 713545, www.naturalcasingco.co.uk).1.5kg-2kg piece of boned and rolled brisket, topside, or thick flank 80g sea salt 10g saltpetre 15g coarsely ground black peppercorns 15g ground all spice 15g ground juniper berries 50g dark brown sugar, like moscavadoPut the beef into a close-fitting casserole, stainless-steel saucepan or plastic container with a top Mix all the ingredients together and rub into the beef. Cover and leave in the fridge for 10-12 days, turning it once or twice a day.Preheat the oven to 150C/gas mark 2. Wipe off all the bits of marinade, then, if you've been keeping the beef in a casserole, rinse it out and put the beef back, or find an oven-proof dish that's a snug fit for the beef.

trimmed and shredded on the angle 1 small red chilli, thinly sliced 2tbsp fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc mam) 50g beansprouts A few sprigs of coriander A few sprigs of Asian sweet basilFirst make the stock: spread the onions and ginger on silver foil and put them under the grill for 6-7 minutes until browned (be careful not to let them burn) then put them in a large pot with all the other ingredients and a couple of litres of water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer for 2 hours, or until the beef is tender.Strain through a fine-meshed sieve and remove and put aside the beef and tendons (if you're using them).

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Cook for 21/2-3 minutes on each side for rare and approximately 2 minutes more for medium. Serve with the sauce underneath to make it look more like a grown up's than a children's supper.Pho bo (Hanoi beef noodle soup)Serves 4-6 For years I thought this Vietnamese workman's soup was pronounced as it reads, ie "fo". When I did get round to actually tackling Heui, my local Vietnamese restaurateur at Cay Tre, in Shoreditch, east London, he said it as "fff", as if he were about to tell me to go away.So pho is rather like a sort of noodly French pot au feu - which is handy as feu sounds almost the same in French as pho does in Vietnamese.

It's a soup of the moment where almost anything can go in the pot But the stock base is essential. I've eaten watery phos where they haven't got this right, so it's worth taking the trouble to make a proper stock.The best and most authentic versions of pho I've eaten contain beef tendons and tripe as well as brisket and thin slivers of raw beef, just added at the last moment. If you can't find these in your local butchers then the flavour of the braising beef will make a good stock for your pot au pho.For the stock2 onions, peeled and roughly chopped A small piece of galangal, or ginger, scraped and roughly chopped 500g braising beef (cheek, brisket or shin) 150g beef tendon (optional) 2 kaffir lime leaves 1 stick of lemon grass 1 star anise 2-3cm cinnamon 3 cardamom pods 1tsp black peppercornsFor the soup150g beef sirloin, or fillet 60g cooked beef tripe, thinly sliced (optional) 150-200g bahn pho dried rice sticks, or flat rice noodles 4-6 spring onions. With Brian O'Driscoll and Denis Hickie erased from the Leinster back-line, the West Countrymen may just exert sufficient pressure up front to come away with a result.. Within a minute Frankie Sheahan was shunted over the line, O'Gara converted, and all Sale had to show for their endless dominance was three penalties from Charlie Hodgson. Sale should have made more of their territorial advantage, but the referee refused resolutely to penalise Munster for killing the ball. Although O'Gara struck again, soon after the break, Hodgson collected two more penalties to remind the watching England head coach, Andy Robinson of what he is capable.

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